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Loma Today

Through the times dating back 50 years Loma slowly experienced what many larger cities took for granted. In the 50’s Loma was connected to the world with television through the help of translators and then dial telephones. Today many families take advantage of satellite dishes for viewing and cellular phones.

Over time Loma has seen many changes. Early homesteads have improved from 12 foot square homestead shacks to larger more sturdy residences. Today Loma has about 60 residences. The current population of the town is 90. Loma has a school that hosts grades K-6. The current enrollment is 4 students. The older students are bused to Fort Benton, a community 11 miles away.

Farming for this area has seen the transition from using horse driven plows, to steam engine gang plows, to the large diversified machinery used today. Loma has approximately 60-100 farms in the outlying area. About 90% of the farms mostly farm with little or no ranching done in the area. The rangeland in this area is dwindling due to lack of rainfall.

The primary crop in this area is winter wheat. Depending on which farmer you talk to whether or not they got rain, this years' 2000 harvest varied from 15 bushels per acre to 40 bushels per acre.

The town of Loma during the early 1900’s hosted 30 businesses ranging from a barber shop, taxi service, blacksmith, harness maker, oil company, bank, drug store, pool hall just to name a few. Today Loma has 4 main businesses. They consist of a bar/casino, a small convenience store, a hotel, and a café.

Loma residents feel that their economy is based 75% on the four businesses of this small town. They have a seasonal business relying on the fall hunting season. Since their town’s location is right on the Highway 87, they find that tourists support their local business establishments.

Because of Loma being near many historic sites such as Fort Piegan, Decision Point, Ophir, and Lewis and Clark campsites, their future survival relies on tourism. They are taking steps to prepare for the Lewis and Clark Observance by establishing and setting up historic sites. A current project being worked on is with the State of Montana. A scenic site will be established on the hill of Loma overlooking the three valleys giving a view of the Highwood Mountains.

Another future project will be the reconstruction of the replica of Fort Piegan(1831) on the original fort location.

Loma’s community invites all to share in their rich historical area. As they look toward the twenty-first century they enter with hope, anticipation, and determination.


Fort Benton Today

Fort Benton is located on the banks of the Missouri River in the “Golden Triangle” area of North Central Montana. It is one of the oldest communities in this state having been established as an American Fur Company Trading Post in 1846.

Fort Benton and surrounding countryside offers a scenic view. They are the gateway to the Wild and Scenic Upper Missouri River. They are close to the picturesque areas of the Highwood Mountains and Square Butte Recreational Area.

Today Fort Benton roughly has a population of 5,452 (1998 census). It offers small town friendliness as you stroll down the levee and Front Street. There are many small touristy shops and small businesses. The businesses are comprised of two hotels, outfitters, shuttles, hunting guides, auto and farm equipment dealers, arts and folk craft studios, and restaurants.

The frontier history comes alive in this small town. Meriwether Lewis, William Clark, and the corps members walked this very same bank almost two hundred years ago. The beauty still remains breath taking even today. Imagine the sight of steamboats docked at the levee, the hustle and bustle of freight being loaded onto oxen trains bound for the Northwest, or saloons, dancehalls, and brothels open to all. You can almost picture the frequent gunfights or poker games in one of the many establishments along Front Street.

The levee is home to two famous sculptures done by Bob Scriver. The sculpture Lewis and Clark Memorial was the State of Montana’s Official monument to the Expedition completed in 1976 for the Bicentennial. The second is of “Shep” a heroic, faithful dog connected to the railroad history of the town.

Along with these statues you will also find on the Levee District the Centennial Stone; Doughboy Statue; Obelisk to Captain John Mullan; Choteau House; Bloodiest Block in the West; Old Engine House; Stockman’s National Bank; Wells Fargo Office; Old Fort Benton; Whoop-Up Trail Monument; “The Mandan” (keelboat replica); Remains of “Baby Rose (last of the Missouri River steamboats); T.C. Power and Company; Baker House; Fort Benton Bridge; Upriver Businesses; The Grand Union Hotel; and the Murphy, Neel and Company.

Scattered throughout the town are other architecture buildings remaining from the 1800’s such as the Choteau County Courthouse and Catholic Church just to name a few. Some important historic buildings had been lost to fires and also modern progress to make room for parking lots. However since 1965 Fort Benton was sited in the historical registry and with the community’s help its history is being preserved.

History comes alive as you view Fort Benton’s Heritage Complex and Museums. It is the home to historic “Old Fort Benton”; The Museum of the Upper Missouri; The Museum of the Northern Great Plains; The Hornaday-Smithsonian Bison Collection, and the Schwinden Library and Archives.

Today the town of Fort Benton looks much like it did in its early history. As it was sited in 1965 for the historical registry this town makes a full circle returning to the past for its economic survival. Tourism plays an important role in its future economy.

The state of Montana is divided into 50 counties. Fort Benton resides in Choteau County. North Central Counties, which is where Choteau County lies, was rated #1 in wheat production between the years 1993-1998 with a high of 42.7 bushels per acre. As with many states agriculture is dependant on Mother Nature and our state has seen drought years dropping its production to 33.1 bushels per acre and even lower. In livestock production Choteau County ranks in the state of Montana 27th in cattle, 38th in sheep, 15th in hogs, and 25th in heifers and beef cows.

Over time Fort Benton has seen the influences mother nature has played on its farming economy from extreme winters (temperatures, to snow fall, to ice jams); Chinook winds influencing severe flooding conditions; drought summers; and insect infestation on crops. Man and environment also have affected Fort Benton’s economy with poor grain and cattle markets; wolf reintroduction programs to our state; and the continual conflicts in the lumbering industries. For 1999/2000 wheat exports are expected to reach a seasonal low. Declining returns in recent years have encouraged producers to switch to other crops or leave more land fallow. Little increase in world prices is expected because major wheat exporters’ supplies are large. In 1998 Montana ranked 4th among states exporting wheat and wheat products.

Montana is a state rich in natural environments with a wealth of wildlife. Will the future for Montana and its communities are able to find a happy medium to balance the need for a growing economy and yet preserve the natural environment with all its inhabitants? Only the next two hundred years may tell.


Featured Architecture: Fort Benton and the Grand Union Hotel

Fort Benton This fort has served many purposes throughout its history. Fort Benton began in 1846 originally as a trading post of the American Fur Company for trading with Indian tribes in the region. Later it became a Jesuit Mission and finally a military fort until it was abandoned in 1881 because of its dilapidated state. It was renamed Fort Benton by Alexander Culbertson in honor of Senator Thomas H. Benton from Missouri.

The community of Fort Benton, Montana in 1996 took on a rebuilding project that would be the first in the state of Montana to rebuild a complete trading post that dates back to the earliest years of white settlement. The complete project was estimated at a cost of $1.6 million and would take 6 to 10 years to complete. As of 1996 $60,000 has been spent. Seed money came from government grants but the balance came from private sources and fund raising events.

Research was conducted first by Gar Wood (archeologist) with the help of many amateurs. The old foundations of the trade store and adjacent warehouse, the posts main entrance, and carpentry/ blacksmith shop were found first. A number of artifacts were unearthed including 70,000 glass beads. Also found were old shell casings, tools, coins, nails, wine bottles, and a carpenters square.

Duplication of the buildings will be done by using the numerous photo pictures and paintings done of it at the time of its beginnings. The original buildings were made from logs but by early 1850’s Alexander Culbertson ordered the logs to be replaced with adobe. Bricks for the trade store were made in Three Forks and rough lumber was obtained in the Bear Paw Mts. They are replicas of materials used in the original building. The interior of the store has adobe walls, which are a mixture of clay, soil, water, and straw that dries to a hard surface.

The trade store is a 60’ x 25’ building. Trade was carried out primarily between the natives and the fur company. In early years goods passed through a defense port called the trade wicket. The corner blockhouse with walls that were made of smooth adobe was finished in 1850. It still stands today as the oldest existing building in Montana.

Near the blockhouse are two sites of deteriorating adobe bricks from other buildings of the old fort. Today a park surrounds the fort area with walkways and educational historic signs. The future plans for the fort when monies become available are a two-story adjacent warehouse.

Grand Union Hotel “A Symbol of Age” By 1879, the biggest year on the Missouri River 47 boats brought 9,444 tons of freight to Fort Benton. Fort Benton was the hub and supply depot of the entire region, it now had a strange yearning for “civilization” that would match its prosperity.

In 1876 William Todd, an agent of Murphy Neel Co., dealers in hardware, groceries, and general merchandise bought land near the edge of the Missouri River for $10.00. Todd had to convince businessmen that Benton wasn’t a temporary mining camp but a truly civilized permanent community with a great future.

By this time Benton consisted of a fancy brick store and warehouse built by I.G. Baker, a newspaper, and three hotels. Also in the area since 1879 there was a four story Fort Assiniboine, the armies magnificent million dollar brick post that was providing a fine market for Fort Benton’s merchants.

On Sept. 9, 1880 the corporation called The Benton Hotel Company joined together to obtain funds to carry out Todd’s dream. Originally the cost was to be $30,000. The building was to be three stories high and approximately 80’ x 100’. The main entrance was to be on Front Street with another entrance to be on the levee on Bond Street.

On Aug. 15, 1881 ground finally broke for the hotel. John W. Dewey surveyed the site. It had been 5 years since Todd had purchased the land. A full basement was to be built which was unheard of at this time.

Thomas Tweedy had been selected to be the architect. A granite foundation was laid in August 31, 1881 but because of lack of lumber and poor weather the work was held up. By 1881 the cost to build the hotel had already risen to $50,000.

T.C. Power and Brother had installed the first elevator in their store in February taking that honor away from the Grand Union Hotel. Work began again on March 13, 1882 but was halted because their was a scarcity of lime for the brickwork.

The hotel took one year three months and 18 days to construct. Planning for it took over seven years. The hotel held 60 bedrooms for guests, six of which were suites for families. Today the hotel has 39 beds.

The first floor was comprised of the lobby, saloon, ladies entrance, dining room kitchen, steam laundry, sample room, saddle room, and two secret spy chambers the were used for guarding gold shipments. The ladies stairs today no longer exist. The first floor housed the washroom consisting of six marbled basins with a zinc tank three feet high. Draining waste water was piped through a sewer connected to the Missouri River. Today all plumbing meets the state requirements for environmental issues. The lobby desk was made by Jones and Merrill. It was made entirely with hand tools. It contains almost as many moldings as the rest of the hotel put together. The windows originally had stain glass but were replaced with plain glass in 1900.

The second floor was oddly planned. It was built this way so the largest rooms would occupy the best locations. Odd shaped and corner rooms were called “dark rooms” and would rent cheap. The only light in these rooms came from the transoms and tiny high windows. The ladies’ parlors occupied the two huge corners. The walls housed French wall paper and upon the windows hung heavy velvet drapery. The bridal chamber adjoined the ladies’ parlors. It was the finest sleeping room available. There were no square corners on the second floor. Most of the rooms here were interconnecting with folding doors so large families could use them. Sometimes these rooms were used as sample rooms. Every bedroom in the hotel had its own chimney. From 1882-1900 each had an individual wood stove. The hotel employed two wood packers. The chimneys are now sealed and capped above the roof. They had no indoor bathrooms. It had two outhouses, two story affairs behind the hotel close to the well and root cellar. In 1900 a major remodeling of the hotel removed the outhouses.

The third floor room did not have a high status. There is only one stairway leading to it. Fire escape emergency exit was installed in 1952. Several rooms had no outside windows. Skylights made them more pleasant. Kerosene lamp and candles provided the first lighting. Gas lights came a few years later. Today everything is electric.

On Sept. 27, 1882 the River Press announced the title of the hotel “Grand Union” but there was no mention why that name was selected. Some speculated it was referring to the recent uniting of the North and South after the war between the states.

The doors and windows for the hotel were made in Auoka, Minnesota and shipped. The fine furnishings all came from Duluth. The hotel safe came from Wackerlin’s Warehouse in St. Paul. Baker and Le Lorimier were hired as interior decorators for the hotel. A.A. Martin had been hired as the head cook. It’s grand opening was held Thursday, Nov. 2, 1882. It was the grandest affair of its kind ever witnessed in Benton and most probably in the territory. It hosted an opening ball. Before 9:30 there were between 200-300 guests. Benton String Band entertained the crowd from a platform on the riverside. Tickets with supper for the event cost $3.00.

There have been several owners of the Grand Union Hotel. By the end of 1883 Fort Benton was in a deep local depression which reflected in financial difficulties for the hotel. By 1885 it was operated by Hunsberger and Travers. Charles Rowe and Tom Todd operated it in 1894-1899. John Green and William Rowe Sr. had it for many years. In 1907 Mrs. Stevens took it over. From 1917 to about 1955 Charles Lepley owned it. In 1955 Harold Thomas announced plans for modernization and restoration. In 1978 Lyle and Barbara Shaw sell it to Roger and Myrl Debruycker who later lost the hotel in 1984 because of financial problems caused by expensive renovation costs. Today Cheryl and James Gagnon own the hotel that they purchased in 1995.

The Grand Union Hotel was put on the National Register of Historic places in 1976.


Last Modified on: 1/30/2003